|
Istanbul
Bogazi (Bosphorus)
A stay in
Istanbul is not complete without the traditional and unforgettable boat
excursion up the Bosphorus, the winding strait that separates Europe and Asia.
Its shores offer a delightful mixture of past and present, grand splendor and
simple beauty. Modern hotels stand next to yali (shorefront wooden villas),
marble palaces abut rustic stone fortresses, and elegant compounds neighbor
small fishing villages. The best way to see the Bosphorus is to board one of the
passenger boats that regularly zigzag along the shores. You embark in Eminönü
and stop alternately on the Asian and European sides of the strait. The
round-trip excursion, at a very reasonable cost, takes about six hours. If you
wish a private voyage, you can contact one of the agencies which specialize in
organizing day or night mini-cruises.
During
the journey, you pass in front of the magnificent Dolmabahçe Palace; farther
along rise the green parks and imperial pavilions of Yildiz Palace. On the edge
of this park, on the coast, stands Çiragan Palace ,now restored as a grand
hotel. Refurbished in 1874 by Sultan Abdülaziz, it stretches for 300 meters
along the Bosphorus shore, its ornate marble facades reflecting the swiftly
moving water. In Ortaköy, the next stop, artists gather every Sunday to exhibit
their works in a streetside gallery. The variety of people create a lively
scene; sample a delicious bite from one of the street vendors. In Ortaköy, there
is a church, mosque and a synagogue that have existed side by side for hundreds
of years - a tribute to Turkish secularism and tolerance. Overshadowing
Istanbul's traditional architecture is the Bosphorus Bridge, one of the world's
largest suspension bridges linking Europe and Asia.
The
beautiful Beylerbeyi Palace lies just past the bridge on the Asian side. Behind
the palace rises Çamlica Hill, the highest point of Istanbul. You can drive here
to admire the magnificent panorama of Istanbul as well as the beautiful
landscaped gardens. On the opposite shore, the wooden Ottoman villas of
Arnavutköy contrast with the luxurious modern apartments of neighboring Bebek. A
few kilometers farther out, facing each other across the straits like sentries
guarding the city, stand the fortresses of Rumeli Hisari and Anadolu Hisari. The
Göksu Palace, sometimes known as Küçüksu Palace graces the Asian shore, next to
Anadolu Hisari. The second link between the two continents; the Fatih Sultan
Mehmet Bridge straddles the waterway just past the two fortresses.
From
Duatepe Hill, on the European side, you can admire the magnificent panorama of
the bridge and the Bosphorus. Below Duatepe, beautiful Emirgan Park bursts with
color when the tulips bloom in spring. Opposite, on the Asian shore is Kanlica,
a fishing village now a favored suburb for wealthy Istanbulites. Crowds gather
in the restaurants and cafes along its shores to sample its famous yogurt.
Shortly after Kanlica and Çubuklu is the Beykoz Korusu (Abraham Pasa Woods), a
popular retreat. In the cafes and restaurants you can enjoy the delightful views
and clear fresh air. On the European side, at Tarabya Bay, yachts seem to dance
at their moorings. The coast road bustles with taverns and fish restaurants from
Tarabya to the charming suburbs of Sariyer and Büyükdere. Sariyer has one of the
largest fish markets in Istanbul and is also famous for its delicious varieties
of milk puddings and börek (pastries). A little further on past Sariyer, the
narrow strait widens and disappears into the Black Sea.
Haliç - The
Golden Horn
This
horn-shaped estuary, divides European Istanbul. One of the best natural harbors
in the world, the Byzantine and Ottoman navies and commercial shipping interests
were centered here. Today, lovely parks and promenades line the shores where the
setting sun dyes the water a golden color. In Fener and Balat, neighborhoods
midway up the Golden Horn, whole streets of old wooden houses, churches, and
synagogues date from Byzantine and Ottoman times. The Orthodox Patriarchy
resides here at Fener. Eyüp, a little further up, reflects the Ottoman style of
vermicular architecture. Cemeteries sprinkled with dark cypress trees cover the
hillsides. Many pilgrims come to the tomb of Eyüp in the hope that their prayers
will be granted. The Pierre Loti Cafe, atop the hill overlooking the shrine is a
wonderful place to enjoy the tranquility of the view. |
|